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2003-08-13 11:57 ÈýÉ«ÍõºîÖ®µØ--À­¼Ö˹̹ À­¼Ö(RAJA)ÒâΪÍõºî£¬Ë¹Ì¹£¨STHAN£©ÒâΪ¹ú¶È£¬ÕâƬÓÐ×ÅÓ¡¶È´Î´ó½ΨһɳĮµÄÍÁµØÉÏ£¬À­ÆäÆÕÌØÈ˽¨ÆðÁËÖÚ¶àµÄÍõ¹ú¡£ Rajasthan is one of the 29 states of india that, along with seven union territories, form the republic of India. So rich is the history of the land that every roadside village has its own tales of valour and sacrifice, the winds sing them and the sands shift to spread them. Rajasthan is Spicy, but then, what is life after all without little bit of spice, Rajasthan provides abundant scope to explore it. The panoramic outlook of the state is simply mesmerizing, with lofty hills of Aravali's - one of the oldest mountain ranges of the world and the golden sand dunes of the Great Indian Desert - the only desert of the sub-continent. No other region in the country is a conglomeration of so many paradoxes. It is a land of superlatives, everything over here is breathtakingly beautiful, impressive and fascinating! The state is well connected with other parts of the country and can be easily approached from Delhi and Bombay. Fast trains, direct bus and air connections make travel easy and comfortable. A visit to this wonderland will leave a lasting spell on your mind. In fact, one visit is not enough to capture the real essence of this magical land. You will, we assure you, keep coming back for more. Rajasthan is a destination that defies definition. Rajasthan is a vibrant, exotic state where tradition and royal glory meet in a riot of colors against the vast backdrop of sand and desert. It has an unusual diversity in its entire forms- people, customs, culture, costumes, music, manners, dialects, cuisine and physiography. The land is endowed with invincible forts, magnificent palace havelis, rich culture and heritage, beauty and natural resources. It is a land rich in music, Dance, Art & Craft and Adventure, a land that never ceases to intrigue & enchant.There is a haunting air of romance, about the state, which is palpable in its every nook and corner. This abode of kings is one of the most exotic locales for tourist world over. The state has not only survived in all its ethnicity but owes its charisma and color to its enduring traditional way of life. Rajasthan is one of the 29 states of india that, along with seven union territories, form the republic of India. So rich is the history of the land that every roadside village has its own tales of valour and sacrifice, the winds sing them and the sands shift to spread them. Rajasthan is Spicy, but then, what is life after all without little bit of spice, Rajasthan provides abundant scope to explore it. The panoramic outlook of the state is simply mesmerizing, with lofty hills of Aravali's - one of the oldest mountain ranges of the world and the golden sand dunes of the Great Indian Desert - the only desert of the sub-continent. No other region in the country is a conglomeration of so many paradoxes. It is a land of superlatives, everything over here is breathtakingly beautiful, impressive and fascinating! The state is well connected with other parts of the country and can be easily approached from Delhi and Bombay. Fast trains, direct bus and air connections make travel easy and comfortable. A visit to this wonderland will leave a lasting spell on your mind. In fact, one visit is not enough to capture the real essence of this magical land. You will, we assure you, keep coming back for more. Rajasthan is a destination that defies definition. Rajasthan is a vibrant, exotic state where tradition and royal glory meet in a riot of colors against the vast backdrop of sand and desert. It has an unusual diversity in its entire forms- people, customs, culture, costumes, music, manners, dialects, cuisine and physiography. The land is endowed with invincible forts, magnificent palace havelis, rich culture and heritage, beauty and natural resources. It is a land rich in music, Dance, Art & Craft and Adventure, a land that never ceases to intrigue & enchant.There is a haunting air of romance, about the state, which is palpable in its every nook and corner. This abode of kings is one of the most exotic locales for tourist world over. The state has not only survived in all its ethnicity but owes its charisma and color to its enduring traditional way of life. Just nine kilometers away, Mandore was a fascinating complex of sprawling gardens, massive cenotaphs, temples, ruins and sculpture. The several cenotaphs in memory of the Jodhpur Maharajas were intricately carved, peaked, temple-like structures, with entirely sculpted facades. Gods, goddesses, animals, lotuses, adorned the walls ad pillars of old yellow sandstone. The largest and most noteworthy cenotaph was dedicated to maharaja Ajit Singh. In a hall were relief sculptures of various deities and rulers, coloured bright and mounted on horses. In little corners of temples were rows of beautiful old tiles, excellent ceramic art. Some depicting Lord Rama or Lord Krishna. Then of course, there amongst the temples, figurettes and landscaped vegetation, were the brightly dressed Rajasthani people. The men, proud in their moustaches and turbans, with the ladies in shocking pink or green viels, wandered about in groups, admiring their heritage. They lent a gaiety to the pleasant late afternoon. By the time I left Mandore it was after sundown. Driving back to my hotel was like being revved vack into reality. As I inched forward in the chaotic traffic, an autorickshaw whizzed past, missing my left fender by half a millimeter, causing me to stand on my brakes. My senses were absorbing the cycles, humanity on foot, glaring headlights of the oncoming cars and jeeps, blaring horns, hawkers crying out sales talk. Popular Hindi film songs held forth from a radio somewhere. Brightly lit shops lined both sides of the road. I noticed that the footpath dentist with his fantastic collection of dentures, had closed shop. It was such a trying experience, that I had forgotten I was in Jodhpur and not in any old over-crowded Indian city! Then emerged, from the post sunset darkness, the reminder once again. Mehrangarh. Now glowing yellow gold against black, with artificial lighting. Shining like the guiding star. The Orion of Jodhpur¡­..the sparkle in the crown. . Jodhpur, former capital of Marwar state, retains much of its medieval character. Beginning in 1549, when the city was called Jodhgarh, the Rathor clan of Rajputs fought and ruled from the virtually impregnable fort until their territory covered some 35,000 sq. miles making it the largest Rajput state. According to Rathor tradition, the clan traces its origins back to the Hindu god, Rama, hero of the epic Ramayana, and thence to the sun. So the Rathors belong to the Suryavansha (solar race) branch of the Kshatriyas, the warrior caste of Hindus. Later, breaking into historical reality, in 470 A.D. Nayal Pal conquered the kingdom of Kanauj, near modern Kanpur in Uttar Pradesh. The Rathor capital for seven centuries, Kanauj fell in 1193 to the Afghan invader's led by Muhammad Ghori. FortThe fleeing ruler, Jai Chand, drowned in the Ganga. But his son or grandson, Siyaji, had better luck. An expedient marriage alliance between the Rathore Sihaji and the sister of a local prince enabled the Rathores to consolidate themselves in this region. In fact, they prospered to such a degree that they managed to oust the Pratiharas of Mandore, nine km to the north of present day Jodhpur.He later set himself up as an independent ruler around the wealthy trading center of Pali, just south of Jodhpur. His descendants flourished, battled often, won often, and in 1381 Rao Chanda ousted the Parihars from Mandore which then became the Rathore seat of government.Rathore fortunes then turned. Rao Chanda's son and heir, Rainmal, won praise for his capture of Ajmer and was then entrusted with the care of his orphaned nephew, destined to inherit the Mewar throne of Chittor. Rainmal may well have had his eyes on this fine, hilltop fort. But court intrigue and treachery stopped him. In 1438 he was doped with opium, and finally shot dead. This triggered bitter feuds, ending with Mewar and Marwar becoming separate states.Rathor legend continues in various versions. One is that Jodha, one of Rainmal's 24 sons, fled Chittor and finally, 15 years later, recaptured Mandore in 1453. Five years later he was acknowledged as ruler. A holy man sensibly advised him to move his capital to hilltop safety. By 1459, it became evident that a more secure headquarters was required. The high rocky ridge nine km to the south of Mandore was an obvious choice for the new city of Jodhpur, with the natural enhanced by a fortress of staggering proportions, and to which Rao Jodha's successors added over the centuries. MEWAR AND THE MUGHULS. Rao Ganga Singh of Jodhpur (reigned 1516-32) fought alongside the army of the great warrior king of Mewar, Rana Sanga, against the first Mughal emperor, Babur.But over the next half century or so, the rulers of Jodhpur allied themselves with Babur's grandson, Akbar. Several rulers of Jodhpur became trusted lieutenants of the Mughals, such as Raja Surender, who conquered Gujarat and much of the Deccan for Akbar, and Raja Gaj Singh, who put down the rebellion of the Mughal prince, Khurram, against his father, Jahangir. With the support of the Mughals, the court of Jodhpur flourished and the kingdom became a great center of the arts and culture. In the 17th century Jodhpur became a flourishing center of trade for the camel caravans moving from Central Asia to the parts of Gujarat and vice versa. In 1657, however, Maharaja Jaswant Singh (reigned 1638-78) backed the wrong prince in the great war of succession to the Mughal throne. He was in power for almost twenty-five years with Aurangzeb before he was sent out to the frontier as viceroy in Afghanistan. Aurangzeb then tried to seize his infant son, but loyal retainers smuggled the little prince out of his clutches, hidden, they say, in a basket of sweets. Political Strife: The kingdom of Jodhpur then formed a triple alliance with Udaipur and Jaipur, which together threw off the Mughal yoke. As a result,the maharajas of Jodhpur finally regained the privilege of marrying Udaipur princesses something they had forfeited when they had allied themselves with the Mughals. A condition of these marriages, however, was that the sons born of the Udaipur princesses would be first in line to the Jodhpur throne. This soon led to considerable.jealousy. Nearly a century of turmoil followed, culminating in Jodhpur falling under the influence of, first, the Marathas, and then, in 1818, the British. The state of affairs was such that a young Rathor prince, when asked ,where Jodhpur was, simply pointed to the sheath of his 'dagger and said, "Inside here". Sir Pratap SinghSIR PRATAP SINGH. :In the 1870's, a remarkable man came to the fore in Jodhpur: Sir Pratap Singh (left) .A son of Maharaja of Jodhpur, he himself ruled a neighboring kingdom called Idar, abdicated to become Regent of Jodhpur, which he ruled, in effect, for nearly fifty years. Sir Pratap Singh was a great warrior and the epitome of Rajput chivalry. He became an intimate friend of three British sovereigns. At Queen Victoria's durbar he is said to have presented her not with mere jewels, like everyone else, but with his own sword, his most valuable possession as aPresent RulerRajput warrior. Sir Pratap Singh laid the foundation of a modern state in Jodhpur, which Maharaja Umaid Singh (reigned 1918-47) built upon. The of Jodhpur was not merely the largest of the Rajput states, but also one of the most progressive. In 1949, after the independence of India, it was merged into the newly created state of Rajasthan. Founded in 1459, the oldest of Rajputana's great cities, Jodha's Jodhpur preceded Bika's Bikaner by thirty years, Udai Singh's Udaipur by more than a hundred, and Jai Singh's Jaipur by nearly three centuries. Dominated by one of India's mightiest fortresses, the capital of the warrior Rathores has played hostess to kings and emperors and tsars; to humble saints and celebrated soldiers; to many a distinguished statesman of our times and of times gone by. Enemies parted friends. Friends return. Not the richest, though perhaps the most charming, Jodhpur, the gate-way to the Great Indian Thar Desert, stands alone as the cultural and spiritual capital of this, the Land of Kings. The twin mini-domes of Fateh Pol, the walled city's entrance to Mehrangarh. The Gate of Victory was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh in 1707 to commemorate his triumph over the Mughals. It opens out into Brahmpuri, The Colony of the Brahmins, Jodhpur's oldest residential section. As old indeed as the fort itself. At once the essence and charm of life in the old walled city. Time has no meaning here as these residents of Brahmpuri congregate in a hatai; an informal conference to grumble, philosophize, gossip and ponder. Many more, as easily diverted, will join them as the day progresses. And in Jodhpur it is said, " where there will be a square there will be a hatai !" For years homes in Brahmpuri have been washed with a particular blue neel or indigo tint. It is an adept reflector of sunlight and keeps interiors cool. The blue is now becoming popular in all parts of the old city and Jodhpur may soon rival the Pink City as Rajasthan's Blue City, even as Brahmpuri loses its colourful distinction.The streets in the walled city are narrow to minimize sunlight and maximize hours in shade.The hot summer wind from the Thar, the loo, is sliced and whistles through, ever cooler. Interestingly, in the old days heavy traffic, camel and bullock carts, was permitted in the city only for two hours in the afternoon during the siesta. Chand Baori, the oldest baori or step-well in the city, it was built by Jodha's queen, Rani Chand Kawar, soon after construction began on Bhakurcheeria. Built essentially to harness seepage from Rani Sar, The Queen's Lake in the fort, it is a stone's throw from Mehrangarh and remains an important source of water in Brahmpuri. An impressive Krishna temple built by Maharaja Ajit Singh and then completely renovated by Maharaja Bijaya Singh in the latter half of the eighteenth century, The Gangshyamji ka Mandir is known thus beacuse the idol itself was brought to Jodhpur by the Rathore ruler, Rao Ganga's queen. A princess of Sirohi, south of Marwar, in the sixteenth century, she was asked by her father what she would like to take with her in her dowry. The only thing she wanted, she replied, was the idol. Her father said he would not be able to give it to her but if it followed her to Jodhpur he would allow it to. Legend has it that it walked to Jodhpur. Ganga installed the idol in a temple in the fort. Later Maharaja Ajit Singh raised this temple in the city. Jodhpur's answer to the supermarket, the early twentieth century Sardar Market Square. Built by Maharaja Sardar Singh it houses the city's only clock-tower and is a veritable shopper's paradise; selling everything from vegetables and fruit to glass bangles and silver jewelry to rare books and American WW II jerry cans! Roadside doctors, dentists and barbers thrive around the tower. The Sojati Pol or gate, once the main entrance to the walled city. The walls have long vanished and today the gate finds itself a traffic roundabout, albeit an important one for it is often regarded as modern Jodhpur's city centre. In the old days all six city gates would be closed at dusk after which no one was allowed to enter or leave the city. Water in the summer and wood in winter was provided to travelers waiting for the gates to open at dawn. Rising majestically over the rocky and rugged terrain is one of Rajasthan¡¯s finest forts-the Mehrangarh Fort. It looks down protectively over the fascinating city of Jodhpur http://mapsofindia.com/maps/rajasthan/districts/jodhpur.htm. It was the scene of just another city in India. Humanity in a hurry, rushing around the busy streets. Rows of autorickshaws stood outside the railway station in ragged lines. Spasmodically, they would take off, to whiz past-a streak of yellow on lack. Pavement hawkers. Shops. Many shops. Stocking all the unending urban wants. Traffic constable Lakhan Singh, neatly dressed in white, was officiously perched in the middle of the bustling square, against the bright backdrop of box-office bill boards. It was typical¡­But wait! There looming up from behind emerged the difference. Magnificent Mehrangarh-one of Rajasthan¡¯s finest forts, looking down protectively over the city, from the hilltop. ne could drive up, but I chose and recommend the walk. With a sweatbrow, in the hot mid-day sun, I trudged up the beaten short-cut track from the city. My polluted and unexercised city lungs, made me stop many a time to wheeze a gasp. It wasn¡¯t so steep but was I in bad shape! Climbing and swerving past small huts, the fort kept getting bigger and higher in my esteem. The sheer rock face from where emerged the tall and massive sandstone wall of Mehrangarh, looked awesome indeed. At last I reached the mammoth gates of the fort. A bearded Jodhpur resident, dressed in traditional threads, complete with turban, sword, shield and hookah, sat posed in his regality to welcome the tourists. A couple of local musicians struck up a local tune. I bought the requisite tickets and set off to explore the palaces, hallways and set off to explore the palaces, hallways and courtyards of Mehrangarh. It was a royal treat, as I ambled past the carefully preserved regalia and regal artifacts. Phool Mahal, Sukh Mahal, Moti Mahal. Exquisitely decorated ceilings and walls, with delicate lattice work on the windows. Large and unusual wooden statues, painted bright, adorned a palace section amongst an assortment of princely cradles. It was a labrynth of wonders, not knowing what the next doorway might lead to. Through the various avenues and routes of this sprawled complex, I found myself on the fort roof, overlooking the entire city of Jodhpur, from over rows of medieval cannons. What a commanding view! The thousands of white houses were chequered with ones painted blue. Traditionally, the Brahmins used to live there. Eventually, when I walked out of the cannon ball scarred Jayapol (Victory Gate) I was reeling from the 15th century experience of Mehrangarh fort¡­. But there was more to come. Just down the road, I was to discover the beauty of Jaswant Thada. Red sandstone stairs led up to the chess-board checked courtyard of the neat white marble cenotaph. Dedicated to Maharaja jaswant, this memorial was built in 1899. Inside, the reverent ambience was framed with several portraits of Jodhpur royalty. Scores of pigeons flew into may wide angle lens, as I admired the peaked structure from the outside. Rather precise trellis work and excellent carving. From the mass confusion of buildings in the city spread below me, I could see the distant outlines of the Umaid Bhavan Palace. I aligned my sights and made tracks for it. Worry this section is only for our guests. I¡¯m afraid you cannot go up these steps (they lead to the Maharaja¡¯s suite). No! Not even to take a photograph. Your friend is not properly dressed. John Langford is not allowed here wearing a green kameez, white dhoti an Rajasthani jootis, offset with 35mm sir around his neck. The beautiful corridors, staircases and hallways preserve in near entirety, roused the curiosity of my adventurous spirit. This was to not much avail since the Umaid Bhavan was now a privately owned five star hotel. A wonderful palace of beige sandstone, built by Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1928 and designed by the President of the British Royal Institute of Architects. A blend of several styles, merging pleasantly. All the trappings of Raj influence, pre-independence royal living were present. Royal auditorium ballrooms, huge dinning-room, guilded royal furniture, majestic tiger and deer skins on the walls of a gloomy library of old books, crystal chandeliers, stained glass windows, liveried manservants and doormen, swimming pool in basement, various momentoes and old photographs. There was so much to see and discover. Outside the manicured lush lawn, was splashed with rows of red and white flowering bushes. From the expanse of green grass, the huge central dome of Umaid Bhavan emerged most prominent, with the four corners peaked into columned minarets. Glowing in the late afternoon sun, this was another royal treasure of Rajasthan. Before the foundation of Jodhpur was laid, Mandore was the established capital of the old Marwar Kingdom. I had the opportunity to visit here, when I was driving through Jodhpur in my old four wheel-drive jalopy. Just nine kilometers away, Mandore was a fascinating complex of sprawling gardens, massive cenotaphs, temples, ruins and sculpture. The several cenotaphs in memory of the Jodhpur Maharajas were intricately carved, peaked, temple-like structures, with entirely sculpted facades. Gods, goddesses, animals, lotuses, adorned the walls ad pillars of old yellow sandstone. The largest and most noteworthy cenotaph was dedicated to maharaja Ajit Singh. In a hall were relief sculptures of various deities and rulers, coloured bright and mounted on horses. In little corners of temples were rows of beautiful old tiles, excellent ceramic art. Some depicting Lord Rama or Lord Krishna. Then of course, there amongst the temples, figurettes and landscaped vegetation, were the brightly dressed Rajasthani people. The men, proud in their moustaches and turbans, with the ladies in shocking pink or green viels, wandered about in groups, admiring their heritage. They lent a gaiety to the pleasant late afternoon. By the time I left Mandore it was after sundown. Driving back to my hotel was like being revved vack into reality. As I inched forward in the chaotic traffic, an autorickshaw whizzed past, missing my left fender by half a millimeter, causing me to stand on my brakes. My senses were absorbing the cycles, humanity on foot, glaring headlights of the oncoming cars and jeeps, blaring horns, hawkers crying out sales talk. Popular Hindi film songs held forth from a radio somewhere. Brightly lit shops lined both sides of the road. I noticed that the footpath dentist with his fantastic collection of dentures, had closed shop. It was such a trying experience, that I had forgotten I was in Jodhpur and not in any old over-crowded Indian city! Then emerged, from the post sunset darkness, the reminder once again. Mehrangarh. Now glowing yellow gold against black, with artificial lighting. Shining like the guiding star. The Orion of Jodhpur¡­..the sparkle in the crown. City of forts, fortitude and palaces Sheesh MahalCONTINUING my travels on the ancient silk route, as it passes through Rajasthan, Jodhpur was the second destination after Jaisalmer. And it comes across as a pleasant return to civilisation after the remote sand dunes of the desert town. As you approach the city, the imposing citadel of Mehrangarh Fort looms large over its skyline. Standing majestically atop a rugged hilltop, it¡¯s like a valiant sentinel guarding the city below, and thereby hang tall tales of valour, grit and sacrifice that gave birth to the city. After the overnight train journey from Jaisalmer - with sand still pouring out from our ears, eyes and shoes - it was imperative to have a hot water bath, which the comfortable Rajasthan Tourism bungalow amply provided us. The invigorating bath came as a tonic of energy - and off we were for our excursions of the historic city of architectural marvels. Jodhpur is known as the sentinel of the desert as it lies in the middle of the rocky and thorny Marwar region, the ¡®Country of the Dead¡¯, west of the fertile Mewar. "Nature here demands a race of hardy men and yields her favours only to the heroic. Such indeed were the Rathore Rajputs, descendants of the great royal houses, who emigrated westwards when the Muslim invasions over-ran northern India in the 12th century." To resist the repeated attacks of the invaders, fortresses and citadels were built at strategic points atop rocky escarpments and mountains all over Rajasthan at Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jhalore, Merta, Nagaur, Pokhran, Kishengarh and many other places. Jodhpur, once the capital of the former princely state of Marwar, is now the second largest city of Rajasthan. Flanked on its western side by Mehrangarh Fort and on the eastern side by the stately sandstone palace of Umaid Bhawan, the monuments, temples and gardens of Jodhpur present a multi-faceted grandeur. Legend has it that the city was founded in 1459 AD by Suryavanshi Rao Jodha, descendant of Lord Rama. It gradually grew around the towering Mehrangarh Fort built as a stronghold on the advice of a sage. Along with Bikaner and Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, too, situated on the ancient silk route that linked Central Asia and northern India with the seaports of Gujarat, became a major trading centre in the 16th century. Reminiscent of the bygone years is the fact that Jodhpur is still the leading trade centre for cattle, camels, wood, salt and agricultural crops. The aesthetic imagination that has gone onto the making of this monumental city stands testimony to the creative genius of its people, incongruent with the harshness of the land and its climate. Naturally our first excursion was to the most conspicuous landmark of the city - Mehrangarh Fort - the very raison d¡¯etre of its existence. Its foundations were laid in 1459. "Perched high like an eyrie on its rocky outcrop, its eastern towers and bastions stand out like tough sinews, where the rock itself was hewn to form the walls and ramparts. From these the view commands the horizon on all sides. From Man Mahal one can see the towers of Khumbhalgarh," writes Virginia Fass evocatively. One climbs up steeply from the south, roughly parallel to the western side, then rounds the northern tip to go back along the eastern flank. The fort is guarded by seven gates, of which the fourth has been destroyed. The first gate, Fateh Pol, between twin bastions, has a curve. The gateway is supported on stoned corbels in the manner of Hindu architecture, but the second, third and fifth gates have elegant Islamic arches. The sixth gate, Loha Pol, controls the final turn round the northern end, and the seventh, Suraj Pol, leads sideways from the eastern passage into the durbar court. Interestingly, a modern lift has also been provided for those finding the climb arduous - and this comes both as a relief and a surprise in the ancient surroundings of the fort! Jaswant Thada near the fortThis impregnable hilltop fort is considered among the best in India with exquisitely latticed windows in residential apartments within. "Intricately carved panels and porches, elaborately adorned windows and walls of Moti Mahal, Pjool Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Sileh Khana and Daulat Khana, seem to make the medieval splendour come alive." A collection of musical instruments, palanquins, royal costumes, furniture and turbans is displayed. But I found the ancient cannons kept on the fort¡¯s ramparts to be its real "big guns". However, the piece de resistance of the fort is its museum, whose scholarly curator we were lucky to run into. He was kind enough to take us around the museum personally and explain its historic antiquities. From the ramparts of the citadel there is a grand view over the city and the surrounding countryside. Below the fortress the old city of Jodhpur is surrounded by a fortified wall 10 km in circumference with seven gates. Some of the old houses have richly carved facades and are painted in blue colour. Curious to know about this interesting architectural colour coding, I asked a local person about it. Though not really sure about its veracity, he informed that it symbolised Brahmin homes. Close to the fort complex lies the 19th century royal cenotaph, Jaswant Thada, built in white marble. Rare portraits of Jodhpur¡¯s rulers are displayed here. Located on rugged hillocks on the bank of a stream, its ethereal architecture - often reflected in water - provides an aesthetic counter point to the rough texture of the fort. Our next destination was the Umaid Bhavan Palace, the magnificence of which had been once even covered by the National Geographic Magazine. Moreover, since I have had the rare privilege of meeting the present Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh - an active member of INTACH and champion of protecting the city¡¯s rich architectural heritage - personally, the keenness was more. It¡¯s the only palace built in the 20th century as a famine relief project which gave employment to the people for 16 years. The British architects of the palace were same as those who built the Rashtrapati Bhavan complex in New Delhi. Its lush green lawns with sandstone pavements and bouquets of bougainvillaea bushes are a soothing sight. The palace now runs as a hotel, though part of it is retained as museum and part as royal residence. Walking through forts, palaces and cenotaphs for most of the day, we longed for some rest and cool greenery, and what better place to visit than the city¡¯s famous Mandore Gardens! This former capital of Marwar, north of Jodhpur, is worth seeing for its old cenotaphs and caves in the crags, which once sheltered ascetics. The exquisite landscaped gardens come alive with peacocks and monkeys and the sprawling greenery - the sacred peepal, banyan, bottle-brush, pomegranate and palm trees and the bubbling fountains. Set against a rocky wall is a pillared compound, the ¡®Hall of Heroes¡¯ and ¡®Shrine¡¯ of the 330 million gods. By now it was almost sunset, and we decided to wind up our visit to the city at the closeby Balsamand lake and palace, now run as a resort. Aesthetically converted into a heritage hotel amidst a verdant public park and bird sanctuary, it is a picturesque artificial lake with a summer palace on its banks. We ordered a sumptuous dinner, and were fussed over by a battery of bearers attired in traditional Rajasthani turbans, answering every call with jee hukum. As the royal feast was laid, a flock of dancing peacocks joined us preening their magnificent feathers. For some fleeting moments, at least, we were transported to the royal glory of the medieval maharajas of Rajasthan. Perhaps it can happen only on a journey through Jodhpur - the memorable land of Marwar. TALES OF GRANDEUR AND GREAT HEROES destinations_jaisalmer_2.jpg (15116 bytes)Set at the edge of the Thar desert ,the imperial city of Jodhpur echoes with tales of antiquity in the emptiness of the desert.Once the capial of the Marwar state,it was founded in 1459 AD by Rao Jodha chief of the Rathore clan of Rajputs who claimed to be descendants of Rama the epic hero of the Ramayana.The massive 15th century AD Mehrangarh Fort looms on the top of a rocky hill, soaring 25 mts. above the plains.The city is encompassed by a high wall 10km long with 8 gates and innumerable bastions. A major trade center of the 16th century AD the fortress city of Jodhpur is now the second largest city of Rajasthan. While the graceful palaces,forts and temples strewn throughout the city bring alive the historic grandeur,exquisite handicrafts, folks dances,music and the brightly attired people lend a romantic aura to the city. PRIME SITES - MEHRANGARH FORT destinations_jaisalmer_2.jpg (15116 bytes)The 5 km long majestic fort on a 125 m high hill is one of the most impressive and formidable structures.Although invincible from the outside,the fort has four gates approached by a winding road. Within the fort are some magnificent palaces with marvellously craved panels,latticed windowsand evocative names. Noteworthy of these are the Moti Mahal,the Phool Mahal,the Sheesh Mahal,the Sileh Khana and the Daulat Khana.These palaces house a fabulous collection of trappings of Indian royalty includinga superb collection of palanquins,elephant howdahs,minitaure paintings of various schools,musical instruments,costumes and furniture. Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur .Mehrangarh Fort is situated on a rocky cliff 400 feet above the town of Jodhpur. The fort's ramparts, which are hewn out of the rock face, are 130 feet high in places, and are protected by a battery of medieval cannon. The entrance is fortified by seven gateways which provide a series of locks along the main access to the fort. Several gates are often strung together, each a short turn to the next, creating a zig zag approach to the fort. The main gate is heavy and spiked. .Outside the Loha Pol or Iron Gate is a wall with the hand prints of fifteen royal satis who immolated themselves on the funeral pyres of their dead husbands. .The palace complex within the fort is constructed around a series of interconnecting courtyards. First built in 1459, it has been added to over the centuries by successive generations of maharajas. It is divided into three areas: .1. the outer court which contains the stables and kitchens; .2. the durbarhall (reception rooms) and maharajas' palaces; .3. the zenana or queen's palaces. Post by ðÆðȵÄÎÑ @ 11:57